Friday, 16 December 2011

Happy hitchin to Marrakech

According to an AA poll, it's 'the end of the road for hitchhiking'. Well, not for me it isn't. I've hitchhiked every decade of my life (except the first), on four continents, and I don't intend to stop just because I'm 70 and no one does it any more'. 

Actually, it's got easier as I've got older -though 1 must admit to a niggle of guilt when a car stops and the driver anxiously asks this elderly woman if he can help. It must be disconcerting to find that I merely want to get to such-and-such, and there's no bus. The last time 1 hitched was a couple of years ago when I was researching my Slow Devon and Exmoor book and missed the bus into Dartmoor.

Tuesday, 13 December 2011

Marrakech brings An Ode to Sahara 2

From Marrakech, the 70-km climb to the Tiz n Tichka Pass in the High Atlas Mountains is a clutch-grinding series of switchbacks offering fantastic views. The first stop is a wind-blasted pass poised somewhere between the two worlds of the High Atlas Mountains and the sub-Sahara. We head towards the Dades, Draa and Ziz Valleys, blessed in this arid land with life-giving rivers. They are indescribably beautiful, lined with palmeraies, ancient kasbahs (defensive forts constructed of red baked clay) and towns that have changed little in centuries. Historically, tribal feuding and banditry were a way of life for the Berbers of the region, and as a result, hundreds of kasbahs were built throughout these valleys.

Monday, 12 December 2011

Marrakech Brings An Ode To Sahara

A journey to and beyond the exotic town of Marrakech leads to a love affair with the desert sun, ancient kasbahs, rippling sands and mouthwatering food.

IT'S LATE AFTERNOON in the centre of exotic Marrakech, with its Andalusia-inspired arches, ochre ramparts, souk marketplaces and distinctive skyline of mosques set against the majestic snow-capped High Atlas Mountains. I find myself thoroughly lost in the medina, where narrow passageways seethe with human activity. Covered bazaars are crammed with spice stalls and workshops of every kind, with artisans at work fashioning slippers, weaving rugs, dyeing textiles and hammering metals.