From
Marrakech, the 70-km climb to the Tiz n Tichka Pass in the High Atlas Mountains
is a clutch-grinding series of switchbacks offering fantastic views. The first
stop is a wind-blasted pass poised somewhere between the two worlds of the High
Atlas Mountains and the sub-Sahara. We head towards the Dades, Draa and Ziz
Valleys, blessed in this arid land with life-giving rivers. They are
indescribably beautiful, lined with palmeraies, ancient kasbahs (defensive
forts constructed of red baked clay) and towns that have changed little in
centuries. Historically, tribal feuding and banditry were a way of life for the
Berbers of the region, and as a result, hundreds of kasbahs were built
throughout these valleys.
Tuesday, 13 December 2011
Monday, 12 December 2011
Marrakech Brings An Ode To Sahara
A journey
to and beyond the exotic town of Marrakech leads to a love affair with the
desert sun, ancient kasbahs, rippling sands and mouthwatering food.
IT'S LATE
AFTERNOON in the centre of exotic Marrakech, with its Andalusia-inspired
arches, ochre ramparts, souk marketplaces and distinctive skyline of mosques
set against the majestic snow-capped High Atlas Mountains. I find myself
thoroughly lost in the medina, where narrow passageways seethe with human
activity. Covered bazaars are crammed with spice stalls and workshops of every
kind, with artisans at work fashioning slippers, weaving rugs, dyeing textiles
and hammering metals.
Wednesday, 7 December 2011
Marrakech Wallops The Senses Part 2
GRILLED MEATS GALORE
Once a popular hole-in-the-wall, (7) Plats Haj Boujema (65 Mohamed ElBeqal; 212-524/421-862; lunch for two MAD163) retains its cheap prices and populist spirit despite the (almost) spiffy new digs in Gucliz. Beauties with kohl-rimmed eyes tend to order panini and pizza, but you should opt for the smoky carnivorous offerings. Succulent minced lamb kofte precede perfect beef brochettes, then flash-charred lamb chops and, for the adventurous, skewers of plush liver or brains. No tasting, please, without the taktuka, a zesty, garlicky tomato-and-grccn-pcppcr relish.
ULTIMATE COUSCOUS
Few restaurants in town bother with the proper raking, swelling and multiple steamings of Morocco's signature semolina grains. (8) Dar Moha (81 Rue Dar el Bacha, Medina; 212-524/386-264; MAD1J00) bills itself as nouvelle marocaine, but its charismatic celebrity chef-owner MohaFedal happily takes an ancien approach to couscous. Start with a mosaic of Moroccan salads at your candlelit poolside table on the patio of French designer Pierre Balmain's former riad. Midway through the degustation menu, a duo of couscous dishes invites you to compare earthier Berber-style barley pellets with the more familiar durum wheat, here as light and fluffy as snowflakes. And near the end of your meal don't forget, the dessert pastilla, made with apples and saffron, dcliciously contrasts cream and crunch. »
Once a popular hole-in-the-wall, (7) Plats Haj Boujema (65 Mohamed ElBeqal; 212-524/421-862; lunch for two MAD163) retains its cheap prices and populist spirit despite the (almost) spiffy new digs in Gucliz. Beauties with kohl-rimmed eyes tend to order panini and pizza, but you should opt for the smoky carnivorous offerings. Succulent minced lamb kofte precede perfect beef brochettes, then flash-charred lamb chops and, for the adventurous, skewers of plush liver or brains. No tasting, please, without the taktuka, a zesty, garlicky tomato-and-grccn-pcppcr relish.
ULTIMATE COUSCOUS
Few restaurants in town bother with the proper raking, swelling and multiple steamings of Morocco's signature semolina grains. (8) Dar Moha (81 Rue Dar el Bacha, Medina; 212-524/386-264; MAD1J00) bills itself as nouvelle marocaine, but its charismatic celebrity chef-owner MohaFedal happily takes an ancien approach to couscous. Start with a mosaic of Moroccan salads at your candlelit poolside table on the patio of French designer Pierre Balmain's former riad. Midway through the degustation menu, a duo of couscous dishes invites you to compare earthier Berber-style barley pellets with the more familiar durum wheat, here as light and fluffy as snowflakes. And near the end of your meal don't forget, the dessert pastilla, made with apples and saffron, dcliciously contrasts cream and crunch. »
Sunday, 4 December 2011
Marrakech wallops the senses
FEW PLACES ON THE PLANET OFFER SUCH A DIZZYING
MOST FRAGRANT COUSCOUS, THE ULTIMATE TAGINE AND
OTHER SPICY SECRETS OF MOROCCO'S CULINARY CAPITAL.
MARRAKECH WALLOPS THE SENSES.
A riot of colors (mosaic tiles; woven textiles), sounds (the drone
of drums from the central square. Jamaa El Fna), and, of course, tastes. Whether in the souks of
the walled Medina or the hourgeois district of Gueliz, there is no hettcr place to savor the
diversity of North African cuisine—lamb, couscous, eggplant all redolent of cumin, saffron and
the crimson pepper sauce harissa—than this ancient crossroads.
Saturday, 5 November 2011
Mamounia Marrakech in 10 words
One of the world’s great old hotels, since opening in 1923 the Mamounia has been welcoming the rich and famous to Marrakech; Winston Churchill was one of the most celebrated guests to have frequented this hotel.
It was originally built in the 19th century as the palace of the crown prince of Morocco but under French rule the building was annexed for use as a hotel. Since independence the property passed into royal hands and is now owned by the king.
It was originally built in the 19th century as the palace of the crown prince of Morocco but under French rule the building was annexed for use as a hotel. Since independence the property passed into royal hands and is now owned by the king.
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