Wednesday 1 July 2015

A long weekend in... Marrakech

After its independence from France in 1956, Morocco, and specifically the fourth largest of the historical Berber Empire's Imperial Cities, Marrakech, took off as a hippie mecca for artists (Andy Warhol), Hollywood starlets (Rita Hayworth), film directors (Alfred Hitchcock shot scenes for The Man Who Knew Too Much here) and the musical jet-set with The Beatles and the Rolling Stones enjoying rest and hazy "relaxation" in the maze-like alleys of this medieval medina.
Into the Eighties, and the expatriate arrivals and investment continued whenYves Saint Laurent bought the colonial Majorelle Garden (where his ashes are now buried). Meanwhile, Patrick Guerrand-Hermès - former cavalryman and great-great-grandson of the luxury brand's founder Thierry Hermès -  bought Ain Kassimou, a late 19th century estate originally built for Leo Tolstoy's daughter Olga, which Guerrand-Hermès transformed into the Royal Polo Club de la Palmeraie with the help of the dapper, super-secretive and publicity averse American garden designer Madison Cox.
And now in the 21st century, Maroc is on a roll and the city is riding a renaissance as a destination for the in-crowd. Kate Moss? Check. Ralph Lauren? Check. Carine Roitfeld and Matthew Williamson doing karaoke at 3am? Check. Scarlett Johansson? Russell Crowe? Georgia May Jagger? Check, check, check. Not to mention the fact the Beckham's pitched up last month for David's 40th birthday with Eva Longoria, Liv Tyler and David Blaine in tow.

Right now, Marrakesh is being described as "the new Ibiza" (there is in fact an outpost of nightclub Pacha here). Style-wise, recent fashion collections by both Hermès and Dries Van Noten had embellished nods to this North African cultural crossroads, and Adidas Spezial design supremo Gary Aspden was recently spotted delving around the souks with Oi Polloi's Nigel Lawson.

Time for a long weekend. 

Fly

EasyJet flies to Marrakech from Gatwick and Manchester; Ryanair operates from Luton and London Stansted; Thomson from Birmingham, Gatwick and Manchester; and British Airways from Heathrow and Gatwick.

Drive



While VW may have named it's bulky yet able SUV after the Berber-speaking Touareg tribes of this region, navigating both narrow souks and wild highways demands something a little more light on its feet and the Range Rover EvoqueHSE Dynamic (in the Si4 petrol guise with 240hp, nine-speed auto, 134mph top speed and four-wheel drive to make light of the winding mountain passages) would be our choice to watch the city disappear. Head out on a 250-mile round-trip run over the Atlas Mountains via the high-altitude Tichka pass (beware of snow in winter months, but if time allows, do take the short detour to Ait Benhaddou, an amazing fortified Berber village built into the mountainside) which eventually opens out to the seemingly empty Sahara and Morocco's movie-making mecca of Ouarzazate. 
This salmon-pink painted town has played host to both Jesus Christ and James Bond (The Living Daylights), as well as Ridley Scott and Martin Scorcese who have both been repeat visitors, filming scenes from GladiatorKingdom of HeavenKundun and The Last Temptation of Christ here. It's a four-hour drive back to Marrakech through the Atlas, but the vistas and the Evoque will provide a lasting memory - this compact Range Rover would have been TE Lawrence's choice.

Stay



Renowned for its high-end luxury properties in Mauritius and the Seychelles, Beachcomber has veered away from the Indian Ocean with this elegant all-suite hotel (plus ten villas with private pools and their own hammams). The Royal Palm Marrakech is just eight miles and 20 minutes from the beautiful chaos of downtown Marrakech. Hundreds of date palms and 4,000 olive trees line fire-bowl lit pathways which meander around the Berber-motifed suites. A vast yet elegant two thousand square-metre pool edges its own 18-hole, par 72 golf course with views from all the suites offering seriously panoramic views over the fairways to the snow-capped Atlas Mountains.


A short walk through the Royal Palm's gardens leads to the Moroccan palace-inspired Spa by Clarins. There are specialist treatments for men, including the 45-minute Skin Blitzer and a Golfer's Swing Massage, which works on suppleness. If you need further workouts (unlikely, as this is a place to seriously unwind and have every need catered for) there is tennis, squash, cardio and pilates.
Junior Suites from £236 per night on a b&b basis. 01483 445 685. Via Beachcomber Tours

Dine



For refuelling after a round of golf or a souk exploration, the Royal Palm offers five venues. The true star though is the seriously good Al Ain restaurant (booking recommended, closed Wednesdays) serving superb Moroccan cuisine prepared by chef Meryam Diane and her all-female team. Arrive here when it's dark for the full romantic effect of lantern-lit walkways emerging into the Zellij-tiled ante-room and the Mashrabiya-panelled dining room and then order the Pigeon soup  entreé (flavoured with almonds and cinnamon) followed by a Tagine of Atlantic bass served with apricots and saffron rice.
Heading towards the city itself, Bo-Zin restaurant and lounge offers food fusing North African and Asian flavours - from shark Tagine to miso cod, and a cheesecake with local Ourika fruits. As your food digests, the beats get progressively louder and Saturday evening evolves into late-night opulence.www.bo-zin.com

The Djellabar is a Marrakech staple in which to see and be seen, but beware: it opens and closes with the frequency of an Atlas Mountain pass, so ask your concierge before heading into town. Launched by Claude Challe, creator of Buddha Bar in Paris, this Forties former residential venue is a veritable mash-up of fine cocktails and local wines (try the supple Domaine De Sahari or the Alain Graillor Syrocco with its hints of spice and incense) all within a pop-art surrounding of contemporary art and musical beats. Imagine being inside Colonel Gaddaffi's head while he's tripping and watching Antonioni's Zabriskie Point.
Villa Bougainvillée, 2 Rue About Hanifa, Hivernage, Marrakech. +212 5244 21242




A swift ride back to the Royal Palm in one of their on-call, chauffeur-driven white Range Rovers, you can then retire to The Bar - blandly named but far from bland in look and feel. In fact we would go so far as to say this is one of the Great Bars Of The World - the drinks list, the incredible interior set around a gold sunken bar makes you feel like Humphrey Bogart in a muted Technicolour tale of inter-continental intrigue. From the local crisp Casablanca beer, through a wide range of Gin, to some very special local wines (try the Ouled Thaleb Red Blend 2011 from Morocco's oldest winery - ruby in colour with a plum and black cherry burst followed by sweet vanilla notes).

Buy 



Kulchi sources, curates and sells the best quality rugs from all over Morocco - handcrafted floor coverings created by Nomadic Tuaregs, Berber women and the tribes of the Azilal from the High Atlas Mountains.
Appointment only. Rue el Ksour, Marrakesh, Morocco. +212 5244 37702. Via Kulchi
Standing for Keep It Secret (oops), KIS showcases traditional accessories and fashion ranges from young and upcoming designers. Seek out Mounir Camouni's considered menswear. Closed Mondays.
Mouassine, Marrakesh, Morocco. +212 675 480018. Via KIS Marrakech